Salamanca: A Golden Christmas in Spain’s City of Stone
- December 2025
If you want to see a city that literally glows, go to Salamanca. Built almost entirely from the local Villamayor sandstone, the city possesses a unique property: it radiates a soft, golden hue that deepens as the sun sets. During the festive season, when the "Golden City" meets the sparkle of a Spanish Christmas, it becomes something truly ethereal.
The Heartbeat: Plaza Mayor
There is a reason many call this the most beautiful square in Spain. The Plaza Mayor is a Baroque masterpiece of symmetrical arches and medallions of Spanish kings. At Christmas, it transforms. A massive, illuminated tree dominates the centre, and the presentation of the lights is a city-wide event. Standing in the middle of that vast, golden quadrangle as the lights flicker to life is a moment of pure theatre.
A Tale of Two Cathedrals
Salamanca doesn't just have one cathedral; it has two joined together, representing a seamless transition from the Romanesque to the Gothic.
- The Old Cathedral (Catedral Vieja): Stepping inside feels like retreating into a fortress of faith. It is cool, dark, and intimate.
- The New Cathedral (Catedral Nueva): This is where the city shows off. Its soaring ceilings and intricate carvings are a testament to the wealth and power of the 16th century.
Look Closely: On the "New" Cathedral’s North Entrance, keep your eyes peeled for the famous floating astronaut. Added during restoration work in 1992, he sits nestled amongst the traditional gargoyles and saints—a cheeky, modern nod from the stonemasons that reminds us that history is never truly finished.
The Treasures of the University
As home to one of the oldest universities in the world, the city is steeped in academia. The University Library is a sight to behold with dark wood, the scent of ancient parchment, and globes that mapped the world when much of it was still a mystery. It feels like a place where the air itself is heavy with thought.
Nearby, don't miss Casa Lis. This Art Nouveau and Art Déco museum is housed in a stunning palace of iron and stained glass. Even if you aren't an art aficionado, the building’s rear facade, with its kaleidoscopic windows overlooking the river, is one of the most beautiful sights in the city. We loved the cafe.
The Roman Bridge and the River Tormes
To truly see the city’s skyline, you must cross the River Tormes via the Roman Bridge (Puente Mayor del Tormes). The first fifteen arches date back to the 1st century. Walking across these ancient stones as the river flows quietly beneath is the best way to gain perspective on just how many feet have trodden this path before you. Looking back from the far bank, the cathedrals rise up like a golden crown above the water.
A Change of Tone: The Civil War Museum
For a deeper, more somber look at Spain’s recent past, a visit to the General Archive of the Spanish Civil War (part of the Centro Documental de la Memoria Histórica) is essential. Unlike the legendary history of the cathedrals, this museum deals with the raw, visceral reality of the 20th century. It is a powerful, necessary counterpoint to the city’s golden glamour, housing propaganda, masonry rooms, and personal records that tell the story of a nation divided. The displays about freemasonry were fascinating and somewhat contrived.
The Salamanca Vibe
Salamanca is a university town, which means it never feels like a museum. It is alive. Between the historical tours, make sure to duck into the side streets for tapas. Whether it’s a plate of jamón ibérico or the local hornazo (a meat-filled pastry), the food is as rich as the architecture.
Salamanca at Christmas is a bridge between worlds, where modern students cycle past Roman stones, and where an astronaut floats on a wall built centuries before flight was even a dream.
We also enjoyed Christmas Shopping at the fabulous Corte Ingles department store, followed by a fabulous meal of Octopus at the very popular Pulperia.
Accommodation: We stayed in an excellent AirBnB apartment very close to Plaza Espana.
