Burgos: The Golden Heart of Castille

If Soria is the poetic, rugged soul of Spain, then Burgos is its grand, golden chest—brimming with Gothic excess, legendary heroes, and the weary but hopeful energy of the Camino. Spending time here feels like walking through a living tapestry where every thread is dipped in incense and history.

The Cathedral: A Gothic Fever Dream

You cannot speak of Burgos without starting at the Cathedral of Saint Mary. To call it "large" is an understatement; it is an architectural obsession. From the outside, its limestone spires pierce the sky like lace fashioned from stone. Once you step inside, the word that comes to mind is excessive. It is a dizzying forest of gold leaf, towering altarpieces, and marble tombs.

One of the most striking features is the "Tree of Jesse" (the ancestral tree) carved into the altarpiece of the Chapel of the Constables. It is a biological map of divinity, winding upward in a breathtaking display of craftsmanship that reminds you just how much the medieval mind was preoccupied with lineage and legacy.

In the very centre of the transept, beneath the stunning star-shaped lantern of the dome, lies the grave of Rodrigo Díaz de Vivar (El Cid) and his wife Jimena. Standing over the simple stone slab that covers the legendary "Master of the Battlefield" is a quiet, heavy moment that stays with you long after you leave.

Following the Footsteps of the Cid

The city is deeply entwined with its favourite son. After paying your respects at the tomb, head to the Museo de Burgos. It is an underrated gem housed in a beautiful Renaissance palace. The highlight here is undoubtedly Tizona, the legendary sword of El Cid. Looking at the steel that allegedly carved through the 11th century brings the myths to life in a way no textbook can.

Outside, the Statue of El Cid stands guard over the city. Located at the end of the Puente de San Pablo, he is depicted in bronze, cape flying and sword drawn, charging toward the horizon on his horse, Babieca. It is the definitive image of Spanish chivalry.

The Lifeblood: Pilgrims and Parks

Standing in the Plaza Mayor—a bright, multi-coloured hexagonal square—you’ll see the heartbeat of the city: the Pilgrims. With their heavy backpacks, scallop shells, and sturdy walking sticks, they are a constant reminder that Burgos is a crucial stop on the Camino de Santiago.

For a change of pace, stroll through the Paseo del Espolón and into the Alameda or along the Arlanzón River. The Paseo de la Quinta offers a green sanctuary of poplars and plane trees. It is the perfect place to let the "museum brain" rest and watch the dappled light filter through the leaves.

A Golden Finale

The most magical way to end a day in Burgos is to take the winding walk up behind the cathedral toward the Castle (El Castillo). As you climb the stone paths, the city begins to open up below you.

If you time it right, you’ll witness the "Burgos Glow." As the sun sets, the limestone of the cathedral and the terracotta rooftops of the old town catch the light, turning a shimmering golden pink. From this height, the spires of the cathedral look as though they are floating in a sea of rose-coloured light—a view that makes all the history feel personal and very, very alive.

From Ancient Humans to Modern Tapas

Burgos manages to bridge the gap between the prehistoric and the present effortlessly. The Museum of Human Evolution is a world-class must-see, housing the 800,000-year-old remains found at the nearby Atapuerca site.

But you can't live on history alone. As the stars come out, head toward Calle San Lorenzo or Calle Sombrerería. The food scene here is fabulous. You haven't truly experienced Burgos until you’ve tried the Morcilla de Burgos (the famous spiced black pudding with rice) or a plate of slow-roasted Lechazo (lamb).

Wash it down with a glass of bold Ribera del Duero wine in a bar where the stone walls are older than your home country.

Accommodation: We stayed at the Reyes Católicos Hotel in Burgos - the room was very comfortable, staff were friendly, it was a pleasant walk along the river to the Plaza Mayor. Plus, we were able to park at the front of the hotel for free.